Space Budget

When you first get the car it looks like there is a lot of room in the nose. Then you start putting stuff in it and you realize that you need to consider everything that will go into the space before you start mounting things. Here is what needs to go into the space between the radiator and the foot box listed from highest to lowest impact:

  • Extended foot box (yeah it's welded in, but it takes up space vs. the standard foot box)

  • Radiator, shroud and fans (mine are bigger than stock)

  • Supercharger system:

    • Two heat exchangers mounted to splitter

    • Water pump

    • lines

  • Radiator supply and return lines

  • Brake/Clutch reservoir and three supply lines

  • Lift puck pump and reservoir (could potentially go inside the passenger foot well)

  • Condenser supply line (#8)

  • AC dryer and lines from condenser to evaporator (#6)

  • Penske shock reservoirs and hoses

  • Radiator bleed line

  • Horn

  • Window washer fluid reservoir

  • Front/Rear brake lines and clutch line with RPVs

  • Heat deflector shield? I think this is biggest challenge

  • Sway bar actuator and cable (perhaps actuator)

  • Wiper motor

  • Nose hinge

  • Diffuser air vents (not sure if these are compatible with heat exchangers)

  • Brake duct hose (might not be compatible with heat exchangers)

  • Battery

Nose Hinge

I’m working with Bob developing an custom nose hinge. More info here.

Nose Frame

The box that supports the radiator, diffuser, nose, etc. isn’t very sturdy. It provides negligible protection in a high-speed collision leaving the very stout monocoque as the first line of defense. It also allows the the diffuser to move around more than is ideal. Some street-car builders internally brace the box and most race cars and several street/track cars construct a proper tube frame. Here’s two builder’s approaches.

Ed’s Frame

Ed’s frame is mode of 1.5” steel tubing. He doesn’t have a nose hinge. The nose is fastened with two pull pins and the aero catches provided in the kit and he’s noticed no chafing on the diffuser. Some observations:

  • Tubing appears to have a larger diameter than is needed

  • No nose hinge

  • I don’t like the location of the bar in front of the radiator. It’s too visible and will impede air flow.

  • Encourages a car to ride up on a collision.

24-Hour Thunder Hill car Frame


  • They are sending us sway bar for mocking purposes. They will need it back ASAP for race seacvson.

  • Different splitter and radiator angle.

  • No nose hinge

  • Recovery strap is different

  • Bracket at top corner can’t wrap chassis and go under suspension mounting point. Instead, we’ll tie it into the 1/2” bolt that goes through the rod end.


HOWARD Airflow in the front wheel well is: under the nose along the bottom of the splitter, into the wheel well, up over and around the tire, and then out the vent and wheel opening and exhaust slot behind the tire. There is also some radiator exhaust air coming into the wheel well from the little triangle openings at the rear of the side vertical radiator supports. I closed these on my car.

The fender top vents are trying to deplete the high pressure zone at the front top of the tire so it is placed to best present the low pressure area on top of the fender to allow air flow through the fender and out of the car decreasing lift and/or improving downforce.

Place the vent with the leading edge on the first vent slot a inch on so ahead of the centerline of the front wheel. Be sure that the trailing end isn't obscured by the center section bodywork when the nose is on the car. The picture on Mikes car above, post #289, is just about right.